been looking for something tidy to activate the built in shift kill in the PCV and I think I found one.

Your text to link here...

The translations on the customer feedbacks are hilarious.

Mad

Looks very interesting. Let us know how it works... Hey do you also have a better picture of that M-factory cover on the sprocket/clutch blead cover

* Last updated by: Blkcasper on 2/20/2015 @ 11:16 AM *

I will let you know, email says it's not going to ship till around the 25th. do you want a M-factory (china) or K-factory (japan) pic. This is and the part I ordered are a K-factory part? I might have to order one of these too, very cool.

* Last updated by: toledoUPSguy on 2/20/2015 @ 1:38 PM *

When I flew RC helicopters big time (not the little things people call rc helis now) there were cool parts you could only find on the Japanese web stores. The place I found this part reminds me of my heli days, lots of cool crap not found here.

LOL...people admonishing me for removing the steel plate and rubber damper from my OEM sprocket cover! There's a lightweight cover for you! I like that! That will remind you never to wear flip flops when you ride! Definitely a departure from the stock look (but that Gen2 sprocket cover has a very nice design).

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/20/2015 @ 3:05 PM *

Man that piece is nice. Where did you get it and price?

Found it. Any know how to convert yen to dallors?

Your text to link here...

First post had link to Japanese website I ordered the shift switch from. The pictures are theirs, not my bike. It is a very cool looking piece and if it saves weight???

Houston we have a problem. #1 is I don't read Japanese. #2 is the wiring, diagram (if I'm understanding it correctly) has 1 wire to +, 1 to - and other to PCV. PCV instructions show 2 wires going into unit to activate shift kill so how the heck is this supposed to work? On a positive note it only took 3 days to get here from Japan.

* Last updated by: toledoUPSguy on 2/28/2015 @ 9:16 AM *

Well it doesn't matter now, shorted out the darn switch. There's money down the drain.

Errr... shorted out the switch? isn't that the point of an intermittent switch (to short/close and then open)?

For your instructions, there's apps for smartphones that will translate text using your camera in real time.

I would assume the kill needs one hole and the unit is the ground to complete a circuit? So why use the other hole if the ground-side is covered? There are many basic ways of looking at moving electricity. Keep the power flowing or momentarily short it to ground, yes?

I would still follow the single wire in and test it on the road. I'd have a long strand of remote wire out of said pc port hole. I'd have enough wire left so I can run both wires being twisted together and covered with a wall switch kind of wire cone over the two wires. Tape is too sticky and slow. The other way is the faster, more [solid] connection. I pull over and connect the one wire k-unit wire onto the pcv wire... Test ride on the return side is once I am in 2nd or 3rd, the rest are shifted with the throttle pinned Wide Open, no backing off like you found out heading from point A to turning around at point B for the return run. This way you know both ways that WOT remained the same or it shifted like butter on the WOT. Have lots of road, Huston!

Well, I guess there are no remote wires used for a 12v source?

has 1 wire to +, 1 to - and other to PCV.

Oh well.

* Last updated by: Hub on 2/28/2015 @ 12:24 PM *

Are there 3 wires on the switch? If not and only 2 here's dynojet instructions fo connection
you should Only Need 2 wires to input 1 or input 2. 3rd wire maybe for switch connection to activate quickshifter function ?????

Hub i never plugged in in to the PCV. What i did was run a spare wire pair to the battery I removed and connected the + & -. Then using my multi meter I was trying to see what the other wire was doing. In doing so I accidentally shorted the + & -. When that happened the little LED in the black sensor quit working. So really I'm not sure if it is working or not.

Yeah man I think you may have shorted switch. Thinking connection should have been +/- wires need to he connected to the pc5. Center wire probably was for power from pc5

UPDATE, darn things is working again. LED is on anyway. the switch is a normally open switch. When the metal tab goes over the sensor the middle black wire puts out 12v. So that being said, I wonder if you could run it as a 2 wire switch with the brown and blue going into the 2 holes of the PCV?

If you run it as a 3 wire with the brown to + and the blue to -, and according to their diagram your putting 12v into the PCV, are you going to have to run another ground into the 2nd QS port?

Guess we'll try playing around tomorrow and see.

Still confused, according the the manufacturer the switch is normally closed and opens on activation. Funny thing the LED indicator on mine lights up (assuming that is closed) on activation. Part# is aps 2.5m-8s-e

Your text to link here...

Here is deal to the pc ports.

1. We wire up the pc we use 12v to run the box.
2. We wire up the ECU with key on and that receives 12v (more/less) to the integrated circuit(s).
3. The pc now waits for a 0 to 5v volt signal out of the ECU.
4. The pc ports are saying, I am looking for an analog [low volt] signal like the analog for water temp.
5. The other ports say, flip my wires if you want either map.
6. The crank signal does not put out 12v but a low ping at the pc port.
7. The pc unit has tiny integrated circuits. Caterpillar like legs receiving and sending voltage.
8. This says: I want to see how many k-box volts are headed into the pc's 0 to 5v port hole?
9. This is where I would send the volt meter down to the 2000ma scale and read that k-box toggle hit.

Here is the 2nd part. That's why I wanted to see what kind of volts are heading out of that k-wire to port22 say? I have to be more in an absolute way of saying that the pc port holes do no receive 12v+. If I hold an IC up and look at it, I want the notch to be facing up and the numbers facing me. The top left peg can receive 15v or more give or take and top right pin is ground. Have at it, oh look, caterpillar legs on the receiving side are hooked up to a 5v receptacle panel! So the analog is hooked up to that singe IC to receive 0-5v.

The water temp is in the 0-5v loop and this is an 'analog port' entry. How about input22 and input11? I'm thinking out a step here I might be wrong. Right now I am looking at the toggle switch into 22 for example. 2 and 2 are now open as if two wires dangling outside the port holes22. But once I toggle the wires together and they touch, it flipped to the other map.

I am not in map22. I am not toggled and remain in map2 on the kill. That is why I do not want to use ports22 together, just port2 as per instructions. I'm going to kill map2 being I am defaulted to map2 w/out toggle tied to the other port.

Here is more wrong if that did not make sense. Lets hook up (both) 22 like you said. WATT are the odds you send the kill to map22 you are not using and not the map you are running? Could that be possible?

Say you do confirm low voltage and hookup the k-box single wire to ports22. Remember to use the popup map drilldown to be sure you are defaulted to port1 or port2 for the kill toggle killing what map and all that? How close am I?

* Last updated by: Hub on 2/28/2015 @ 11:46 PM *

OK, I thought my dumbass truck driver brain had a stoke of genius but it didn't work out. I sent an email to dynojet asking about the effects of 12v going into the QS ports and got a wonderful reply stating the don't help support other manufacturers products. If their QS sensor didn't look like crap I wouldn't be trying someone else's product. Heck with theirs I might as well put an air shifter on this one too.

OK Hub I think you can figure this out dude. Here was my brain fart. Sorry no pictures to go along with narrative since I can't get my wife or sons help. But by looking at blkcasper's posted picture we can go. input 1 has 5v across them while engine is running. Likewise input 2 has 5 volts across them while running. So if we call the port closest to the center 1-1 and the next over as 1-2, the 2-1 and finally 2-2, 3, 4 and 5. 1-1 an2 2-1 are the + terminals.

my hopeful stoke of genius. 1-1 jumped with 2-2 gives you 5 volts so I though I'd plug the brown wire into 1-1, the blue wire into 2-2 and the black wire into 2-1 which should flow the 5v the pcv is looking for when the switch closes.

sounds great right???? didn't work. Any thoughts??

I'm a complete nincompoop on electronics.

I'd start looking into an HM and the hell with DJ. You'll need reasets. Who needs a switch for the QS anyway? Just pull the clutch and shift if you don't want to use the QS.

I'm a complete nincompoop on electronics.

I'd start looking into an HM and the hell with DJ. You'll need reasets. Who needs a switch for the QS anyway? Just pull the clutch and shift if you don't want to use the QS.

problem isn't really with DJ, their switch would work perfectly but it's ugly as crap and waaaaaaaaaaay to expensive for an on/off switch.

As far as who needs QS anyway I think I do. When running the standing mile in LSR I sure don't want to pull the clutch and don't want to take the chance of messing up my tuck by rapidly backing off the throttle to shift.

The black wire is definitely putting out the ground side of the signal.

Ok here's a simple way to test switch. No power needed. Put ohm meter across say whire 1 (red) and across wire 3 (blue). Should show a short if normally closed. Press switch activation lever. Should now read an open circuit. If not measure across wire 1 and middle wire. Same for wire 3 and middle wire. Do the same until switch operates correctly.
Connect those wires to pc5 input 1 port. There are 2 connections for input1 and input2. They are separate inputs and are not tied together.
looks to me like its a 3 way toggle type switch. Center wire is main wire with either contact to wire 1 or wire 3.
That way it can be used with either shift pattern. Standard or reverse. ?????

* Last updated by: Blkcasper on 3/2/2015 @ 7:15 PM *